Considered, Traceable, Transparent.
We review the products we list against our own standard for ingredients, sourcing and packaging — so you don’t have to.
That is the legal baseline every product must meet. Our own list goes further, across every category on this page.
Common across the beauty industry. Not in our curation.
What we say no to matters just as much as what we say yes to.
The ingredients below are permitted in the EU and appear widely across beauty. We apply a stricter line. That is a statement about our own selection, not about products that contain them.
Synthetic Fragrance
Scent compositions carried under the collective term ‘parfum’. Where a brand can tell us what is behind it, we publish it.
PEGs
Polyethylene glycol derivatives used as emulsifiers and solvents.
Synthetic Polymers
Silicones and solid microplastic particles, used for slip, film and texture.
Sulfates
Anionic surfactants that produce a dense lather.
Parabens
Esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, used to prevent microbial growth.
Phenoxyethanol
A glycol ether used as a broad-spectrum preservative.
Mineral Oils
Refined petroleum-derived emollients that slow water loss from the skin surface.
Chemical UV Filters
Oxybenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene and homosalate are not used as UV filters in the formulas we carry.
Ingredients We Leave Out
Grouped by the job each ingredient does in a formula — preservation, texture, scent — rather than by chemical class. Ingredient names follow INCI nomenclature.
This list sets out our own selection criteria. It is not a safety assessment of individual ingredients.
Preservation
Preservatives protect a formula from microbial growth over its life. These are the ones we leave out.
Esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, used to prevent microbial growth in water-containing formulas. The brands we carry preserve without them.
A glycol ether used as a broad-spectrum preservative, permitted in the EU up to 1%. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Preservatives effective at very low concentrations. Not used in the formulas we carry, in rinse-off or leave-on products.
A quaternary ammonium salt used as a preservative and antimicrobial. Not used in the formulas we carry.
A glycol ether preservative, often paired with other systems. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Preservatives that work by slowly releasing small amounts of formaldehyde into a formula. Not used in the formulas we carry.
A synthetic antibacterial agent, permitted in the EU in limited product types and concentrations. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Cleansing & Foam
Surfactants lift oil and dirt so water can rinse them away, and create foam. These are the ones we leave out.
Anionic surfactants that produce a dense lather and lift oil efficiently. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Surfactants produced by reacting alcohols with ethylene oxide. The brands we carry use non-ethoxylated surfactants.
Ethoxylated sorbitan esters used to disperse oils into water-based formulas. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Cationic compounds that bind to hair and skin to reduce static and improve slip. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Texture, Film & Slip
Polymers and siloxanes give a formula slip, hold and a fast-drying finish. These are the ones we leave out.
Silicon-based polymers that form a smooth, water-repellent film and give immediate slip. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Synthetic polymers used to hold pigment or actives in place and resist transfer. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Cross-linked acrylic acid polymers used to thicken water-based formulas and hold emulsions. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Synthetic polymers used as film-formers and hold agents. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Petroleum-derived elastomers used in applicators and some formulas. Not used in the formulas we carry.
A mineral used as a bulking agent and to absorb moisture in powders. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Scent
How a product is scented, and how that appears on the label.
‘Parfum’ and ‘aroma’ are collective terms permitted under EU labelling rules. Where a brand can tell us what sits behind them, we publish it on the product page.
Synthetic macrocyclic and polycyclic musks used as fixatives to extend how long a scent lasts. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Emollients, Solvents & Stabilisers
These ingredients carry actives, soften the skin surface and keep an emulsion stable.
Highly refined petroleum-derived emollients that sit on the surface and slow water loss. Cosmetic grades must meet EU purity requirements. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Polyethylene glycol derivatives used as emulsifiers, solvents and humectants. Not used in the formulas we carry.
A small glycol used to draw in water and dissolve actives. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Chelating agents that bind trace metal ions, protecting colour, scent and preservative performance. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Synthetic phenolic antioxidants that slow oxidation of oils and fats. Note: BHA here means butylated hydroxyanisole, not beta hydroxy acid. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Amines used to adjust pH and neutralise acidic thickeners. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Organic UV filters that absorb ultraviolet light and convert it to heat. Oxybenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene and homosalate are not used as UV filters in the formulas we carry.
Aluminium complexes used in antiperspirants to reduce moisture at the skin surface. Not used in the formulas we carry.
A glycol ether solvent used to dissolve resins and dyes. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Petroleum-derived emollients that give slip and long wear. Not used in the formulas we carry.
A phenol used in oxidative hair colour and some acne preparations, restricted in the EU. Not used in the formulas we carry.
Actives we do not stock
Powerful actives that sit outside what our brands formulate with.
Vitamin A derivatives that increase cell turnover, calling for careful introduction, daily sun protection and medical guidance in pregnancy. Not used in the formulas we carry.
An oxidising agent used in acne treatment, permitted in the EU in limited product types. Not used in the formulas we carry.
A skin-lightening agent, prohibited in EU cosmetics outside professional nail products. Not used in the formulas we carry.
The baseline everyone shares
Restricted or being phased out under EU rules, so no product on the European market should contain them. Listed here because the picture is incomplete without them.
Non-ionic surfactants and wetting agents. Their use in cosmetics is restricted in the EU.
Volatile cyclic siloxanes that evaporate to leave a dry, powdery finish. Classified under REACH as persistent and bioaccumulative, and restricted in the EU in rinse-off products.
Solid synthetic polymer particles under 5 mm, used as abrasives, bulking agents or film-formers. Intentionally added microplastics are being phased out in the EU under REACH.
Plasticisers and fragrance carriers. DBP and DEHP are prohibited in EU cosmetics.
A preservative and disinfectant, prohibited as an added ingredient in EU cosmetics.
Preservatives and skin-lightening agents, prohibited in EU cosmetics.
Hormone-active substances, prohibited in EU cosmetics.
Aromatic solvents and dye precursors. Prohibited or tightly restricted in EU cosmetics.
A monomer used in polymer manufacture, prohibited as an added cosmetic ingredient in the EU.
Fluorinated polymers and surfactants used for slip and water resistance. Being restricted across the EU under REACH.
Polymers used as thickeners and film-formers. Residual acrylamide in cosmetic polymers is capped in the EU.
The regulatory baseline
Ingredient rules vary by region and are updated as scientific committees publish new opinions. These are the primary sources.
Have an ingredient question? Ask us directly.
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